RATTMMOTOR CNC-3018-PRO MAX CNC Router Machine Kit DIY Mini CNC Wood Router Machine 3 Axis GRBL Control Engraver Milling Cutting Machine Working Area 300x180x45mm for Plastic/Wood/Acrylic/PVC/PCB

Good for a first CNC. Review from beginner.
This is my first CNC and my first attempt at woodworking after highschool shop class. So I’m a beginner by all means. Here are some bullet pointsPros- Small size/decent price- comes with a bunch of bits- cuts wood and acrylic pretty easily as long as your cuts are kinda shallowCons- a little loud but thats expected- getting the bed level is a pain in the ass but once you do it, youre pretty much set. I was having problems with one side consistently doing shallower cuts than the rest before I took a level to it and found out some of the bottom screws weren’t fastened all the way when I put it together which made the bed move. Easily fixed but still a annoying. This really made me appreciate the auto Z bed leveling on my 3d printer.- software is not very intuative, youtube tutorials are hard for beginners to grasp (this was my biggest hurdle even though I’m pretty tech savvy).-Most difficult hobby machine I’ve ever put together.Closing thoughts:-Over the years, I’ve put together multiple PCs, 3d Printers, other diy machines and this was easily the most frustrating thing I’ve put together. You need patience since its 0% assembled and I would highly suggest buying a ratchet screwdriver to put it together.-Software for CNC machines is a little overwhelming and not very intuitive compared to the software used for 3d printers. My advice is to download PixelCNC which is the easiest software I’ve found. You can import images like JPGs and SVGs, edit them a tiny bit to give them height, even add text with any fonts you have installed, then you set the project specs like path, tool, depth, etc and you can export the Gcode and save it to then open it up with the Candle program to actually run the operation. It even has tutorials built in that walk you through different types of preset projects click by click. Also its free!-Whenever youre ready to make something, look up the type of material and what youre trying to do with it. One bit and one speed DOES NOT fit all. Generally speaking, the harder the material, the slower you want the feed rate to be and the shallower each individual cut should be. Also, different bits do different things. The ones included are good for very shallow, fine engraving and not really meant for anything else. I suggest looking up a compression bit for cleaner results on the surface although your lines will be a little wider.-To take care of the sound, potential flying broken bits, and sawdust (i live in an apartment with no patio/balcony) I just used an old clear storage container and put it over the machine when I’m working. Makes it sound like a loud air purifier at the most and contains everything. I haven’t run anything for more than an hour or so and havent had any heat issues that way.-Youre going to mess up A LOT. I don’t think I got results that I was happy with until a month in. Give yourself time and don’t think you’re going to be setting up a booth at the flea market next week.-Poplar wood is cheap and in managable sizes at home depot. I also suggest hitting up goodwill to see if they have any wood or acrylic that could use a little decoration. If its cheap, you won’t feel bad if you mess up. Bass wood is ok, but I’ve had mixed results. One vendor here had great quality basswood and another I have not been able to prevent chipping on the surface no matter what depth or bit I used except the compression bit.-stick to simple engraving at first before you try to do cutouts, inlays, reliefs, etc. I started out doing 4 cuts at .25 mm each to cut to 1mm depth total before I started being more comfortable with the machine. Kinda like a car, you gotta learn how it behaves before you start pushing it.All things considered, I’m pretty happy with this. It didn’t quite live up to my expectations being that I wanted it to be more like a 3d printer with the learning curve, since mechanically they are very similar. I was almost ready to return it until I finally found PixelCNC and now I’m actually in the process of buying an extension kit to increase the work area and adding a laser head.If you’re looking for something to make stuff, I would actually suggest a 3d printer instead since they’re easier to learn and have a lot of free files online. With CNCs I feel like you’re kind of on your own plus theres the sound and sawdust. Who knows, even laser engravers might be easier and more supported.

Far exceeded my expectations
Quality components, no issues, excellent final product. I am extremely happy with kit and the assembled machine. From box opening to fully operational it took me 3 hours, even with my many stupid mistakes. I online shopped the many many 3018 router kit variations for hours before settling on this particular one because it offered the best price, features, extras, US inventory, and sold through Amazon. Specifically it included the offline controller and the newest enclosed machine control board with cooling fan. I also preferred the Bakelite frame members over the all aluminum rail versions because the mounting holes for the linear rods, acme screws, and frame members were in ridge fixed positions. While the all aluminum versions could allow for easier future modifications, those previously mentioned items slide in the rails making assembly more tedious and less dimensionally accurate, especially over time. These machines need to be as ridge as possible and the XYZ axis square with each other especially if you will be milling on both side of the work piece. I was happy that this kit included some extra parts. I did not assemble the side shields. The following is not absolutely needed, but I also bought these items from Amazon: MDF spoilboard, 1/4″ ER11 collet, 1/4″ spoilboard router bit (makes the spoil board flat), emergency stop switch, limit switches (although the stepper motor drivers have over current protection), 10mm x 15mm x 1M long Drag Chain (for Z axis and spindle wires), Z-Axis Tool Setting Touch Plate Probe (the control board has a probe input), a Genmitsu KABA Acrylic CNC Enclosure to reduce noise and trap dust, and this book: CNC Router Essentials: The Basics for Mastering the Most Innovative Tool in Your Workshop.

Works well and can be used with a Mac
The listing states that it only works with Windows and Linux, however if you grab the drivers from SainSmart Wiki pages (search SainSmart 101-60-280PRO) It will work with a Mac tested with a 2019 MacBook Pro 16 inch. Also as per recommendation from another user of the 3018 CNC I used UGS (Universal G-Code Sender , Search for UGS Nightly Build) as my interface program. It worked very well to control the CNC. Also I used Easel (online application) to create the G-code for UGS to use. All is very easy to use and makes quick work of the project. To watch some good videos on how to setup, test, upgrade, make images for, Convert images to G-code and just about anything else for the 3018 I found James Dean Designs 3018 CNC videos on YouTube to be extremely educational and helpful. I also used white lithium grease as a lubricant for all “ways” and “guide rails” which seems to work well. In the photos I was a bit excited and didn’t clean out the machining burrs so you will have to over look that as well as my soda can. LOL

he querido contactar al fabricante porque llego dañada la USB con los programas, la he hecho funcionar y funciona bien pero necesito saber que procesador es para el programa de aspire, si alguien puede decirmegracias